Fence Supply Inc.

Fence Supply Inc. - wood, iron, chain-link, PVC, and farm-and-ranch fencing; iron handrails, posts, and gates; PVC handrails, posts, and gates; gate operators; access control; kennels

(972) 226-0004

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Archives for Learn

How to Choose a Fence Contractor

December 18, 2012 by Learn

If you’re looking for someone to build your fence, there are a few things you may want to know before hiring them. Like any other service industry, you want to make sure you’re dealing with someone who’s reputable. Although you’ll want to stay away from salespeople and contractors who ask for big lumps of money up-front, asking for a deposit is a common practice among fencing companies. If the company requires a deposit, make an agreement that you’ll give it to them the day they begin work, not the day you sign the contract. This will ensure they’ll show up with materials and be ready to work.

Another good tip is to find out if the contractor is bonded and licensed. Either the Department of Labor and Industries or the Construction Contractors Board can assist you in getting this information. You will also want to check and see if the fence contractor is part of a local trade association. When contractors are part of organizations like the Better Business Bureau, it shows they care about what customers have to say.

You should get multiple estimates from fence contractors, as well. Try to get at least three. You don’t want to go with the cheapest company; you want to check and see how much the company is charging you versus what the materials are worth. Within each estimate you will find the material and labor costs.

Within the estimate should also be a statement of exactly what will take place and the length of time being allotted for work. Ask for former customers’ phone numbers. You can also visit some of the homes the company has built fences for and check out the quality of the work. Take your time when looking for the right fence contractor. Your fence will last a long time if you get it right from the beginning.

Fence Supply Inc.’s Preferred Contractor Program

Finding a Contractor in the Dallas / Fort Worth, TX Metroplex is no longer a difficult process. Rely on Fence Supply Inc. to assist you with finding a suitable contractor for your project.

Quality Materials, Quality Contractors

Fence Supply Inc. can help you choose the best products through the process that we have developed over many years of experience.

If you want to do this yourself, we will be happy to guide and direct you along the journey. If you prefer to have one of our contractors install your project for you, Fence Supply Inc. can help you with some great fence contractor choices. Give us a call at (972) 226-0004 or visit our Contractor Referral Program for more information. Since 1969 Fence Supply Inc. has been successfully recommending installation professionals to Homeowners, Business Owners, Government organizations, and other clients, big and small. We want to make sure you have a good fit and a great experience. We only recommend contractors to you that we would recommend for our friends and family.

Filed Under: General Articles

Chain Link Fence for Perimeter Security

December 10, 2012 by Learn

Chain Link Fence for Perimeter Security

Security is not the absence of danger, but the presence of things that will keep us away from it. And what better way to keep the danger at bay than a chain link fence? Here is a collection of the different advantages of chain link fences for security purposes:

Ease of installation

Chain link fences are fairly easy to put up since they already come as ready-to-install materials. All you need to do is roll them out, cut them, and attach them into your fence frames and posts. No complicated measurements are involved in their installation since all you need to do is match their measurements to that of the fence. And they don’t need any finishing to improve their serviceability or to prolong their life.

Lesser overall cost

Chain link fences excel in their economic value. They cost less per fence-foot than most other fence types. Their ease of installation also guarantees that minimal labor is needed in setting them up. They also don’t need any finishing touches, so you will save the costs of painting and staining. Chain link fences also need minimal to no maintenance after installation, which adds up additional savings over time.

Added security through visual transparency

With chain link fences, you can see exactly what is going on in your property at all times. Sometimes criminals use the privacy of other kinds of fences to their advantage, because privacy fences makes it easier to hide. If security is a big factor in your fence choice, consider the high visibility chain link fences give in addition to securing your property.

Customizable measurements

The measurement of chain link fences can be customized to your needs. You can choose from different wire gauges and mesh sizes in accordance with your requirements. Below is a list of suggested wire gauges and mesh sizes to give you an idea on how to purchase chain links according to your needs:

Purpose

Wire Gauge

Mesh Size

Residential

No. 11

2 inches

Commercial

No. 9

1 to 2 inches

High Security

No. 6

1 inch and below

Customization

Chain link fences are highly customizable. They can be outfitted with any number of features and accessories to add to the security of your fence. You can add barbed wire on top or your chain link fences, or you can easily charge them with electric current. Chain link fences are also most compatible with motion triggered flood lights due to its visual transparency.

Chain link fences offer a great number of advantages when it comes to security, economy, customization, and many other factors. Consider building yourself a chain link fence!Chain link is indeed a better choice and with these advantages it can be concluded that it is one of the top choices for security, economic, aesthetics, and whatever other purposes your fence may serve.

Filed Under: Chain-Link Tagged With: construction, fence, fence types, install, materials, perimeter security, ready to install, security fence, separation barrier, types of fences

Chainlink Installation Considerations

November 28, 2012 by Learn

 Fabric — Weight and Height

Chain link fencing will add beauty, value, and security to your property and comes in many different heights and sizes. The most popular heights are the 4’, 5’ and 6’ heights, with a fabric weight of 11 gauge and 11 ½ gauge. Chain link fabric is also available in other heights and sizes such as 8’, 10’ and 12’, along with 12 ½ gauge and 9 gauge. Other special order sizes are available and   Fence Supply Inc. can meet your specific needs for all your chain link projects.

Most residential applications will use the 11 ½ gauge fabric, while most commercial applications use either the 11 gauge or the 9 gauge fabric.

 Posts — Size, Depth, and Gauge

To ensure a strong fencing solution,  Fence Supply Inc. recommends setting posts for your chain link application at a depth of 18 to 24, and at a distance not greater than 10’ OC (on center). Most residential applications will set posts at the 18 depth, while commercial application may use either the 18 or 24 depth. Residential chain link posts are 2 3/8 diameter for the terminal (corner) posts and 1 5/8 diameter for the line posts. These posts are usually either a .055 gauge or .065 gauge.

Commercial applications usually use a 2 7/8 terminal post and 2 3/8 line post. These posts are usually heavier at .080 gauge or .095 (SS20) gauge. NOTE: The gauge of a post refers to the wall thickness. The higher the number, the thicker the post wall and the stronger and heavier the post will be.

 Residential vs. Commercial Style Chain Link

Residential and commercial chain link have a lot of similarities, but there are a few important differences. Most residential chain link materials will be lighter weight than commercial applications. Commercial chain link installations may also include barbed wire and/or razor wire for added security, and is not normally seen on residential applications. Residential chain link in 4’ and 5’ heights will have fabric in a knuckle/knuckle configuration while 6’ and taller will have a knuckle/twist configuration.

Other differences in residential vs. commercial chain link include the fittings needed for each type of application. These fittings include the attachment hardware which consists of single tension bands (STB), single brace bands (SBB), one way caps, two way caps, RT caps, dome caps, rail ends (RE), loop tops, tension bars, top rail (TR),tie wire, tension wire, and pig rings.

While most residential applications use the basic set-up with one way and two way caps, commercial applications will use the SBB, RE, and dome caps to accomplish this part of the installation process. Most residential installations will use a lighter, smaller top-rail as well, usually a 1 3/8 top-rail while commercial applications will use a 1 5/8 or 1 7/8 top-rail.

 Height of Fence

While personal preference may be the biggest reason for choosing a fence height, there may be other considerations as well. City codes or zoning laws may dictate the minimum and maximum height of a fence. Safety and security may be other considerations, as well as knowing that the proper height and placement of your chain link fence will add beauty and value to your home.

 Barbed Wire / Razor Wire 

Barbed wire and razor wire are excellent ways to add additional security to your chain link fence. These products are mainly used in commercial applications, but can be used on any chain link application where an added measure of security is required. These types of applications will require the terminal posts to be 17 higher than the top of the chain link fence, and barb arms to be affixed to the line posts to attach the barbed wire/razor wire.

Most barbed wire applications use a 3-strand set-up, but 2-strand is also used. When installing razor wire, the center strand of barbed wire is omitted and the razor wire is attached to the top and bottom strands of barbed wire using hog rings.

 Bracing / Trussing 

While bracing and trussing are more commonly used on commercial or heavy duty chain link applications, they can be used on any chain link installation where extra support is needed. A brace rod, usually made of 1 5/8 tubing, is used in conjunction with the appropriate rail end (2-hole RE), truss rod, and truss rod tightener. This system gives additional support in areas that may need it, such as corners or gate posts.

 Chain Link Colors 

Chain link is available in several colors of vinyl coated chain link. The most common colors are black and green. The standard colored chain link is 9 gauge after coating, and can add an additional level of beauty to your home. Colored chain link tends to blend in with the surroundings, making it less noticeable at a distance.

 Tool Rental 

There are many tools available to make your chain link installation easier.  Fence Supply Inc. has these tools available for sale or for rent. Our Little Beaver augers make digging your post holes a breeze. Our Post Popper allows easy extraction of old posts. Use our Come-along in combination with our Finger and Stretching Bar to make stretching your fence an easy task. We also have pipe cutters available for any pipe cutting needs you may have. Please see our Tool Rental section for a complete list of tools available.

 Gates 

There are many excellent choices for gates for a chain link fence. The most common is either the single-or double-swing gate. This gate attaches with bolts on pin hinges and gate clamps and uses a bolt-on fork-latch assembly for latching and locking the gate. Double-swing gates can use a drop bar assembly to lock one panel to the ground while the other panel latches and locks to the first panel with the normal fork latch assembly. Commercial double drive swing gates can use an industrial drop bar (IDB) for additional security.

Another great choice for chain link gates is the safety roller gate. This gate uses a track assembly that attaches to the fence posts via pipe track brackets. Roller assemblies attach to the rear of the gate and it glides on the pipe track while the front of the gate is supported by a front wheel that rolls along the ground. A stable surface such as concrete, asphalt, or hard pack is needed for this type of gate for smooth operation.

Cantilever gates are also a good choice for chain link gates but are more commonly used in heavy duty or commercial applications. A cantilever gate is fully suspended on the fence via cantilever rollers which attach to the fence posts via a U-clamp. A cantilever gate must be 1.5 times longer than the actual gate opening to provide for the cantilever action. Cantilever gates virtually eliminate the need for a smooth surface since they roll on the fence itself. Both the cantilever and safety roller gates can use the cantilever latch assembly for latching and locking the gate.

V-track slide gates are also an excellent gate solution. This type of gate requires a hard, flat, straight surface such as concrete or asphalt for mounting the V-track. The gate then slides on the V-track via four or six rollers mounted in boxes attached to the bottom of the gate frame. The top of the gate uses guide rollers attached to the fence posts to stabilize the top of the gate.

Many types and sizes of electric gate operators can be used on any of the gates above and are available at Fence Supply Inc. for your every gate installation need.

Filed Under: Chain-Link

Eight Steps to Chainlink Fence Installation

November 28, 2012 by Learn

Eight Steps to Chainlink Fence Installation:
Before
you start you will need the following tools to
install your chain-link fence:

  • Post hole digger
  • Wheelbarrow, shovel and hoe
    for mixing concrete
  • Tape measure
  • Carpenter’s level
  • Strong string and stakes
  • Pliers
  • Fence stretcher (block &
    tackle or ratchet type power pull)
  • 1/2” or 9/16” wrench
  • Reciprocating or circular
    saw with metal cutting blade or pipe cutter

 

Filed Under: Chain-Link

How to Stain a Wood Fence Arbor or Pergola

November 26, 2012 by Learn

Pergola_in_Cloisters_Pocket_Park_-_geograph.org.uk_-_823464

Pergola by Ruth Thomas via Wikimedia Commons

An arbor or pergola is a common feature found in many gardens.  These consist of wooden fences and arcs where vines are allowed to creep and grow. A fully-vined arbor or pergola forming into a long, stretched tunnel will offer welcome shade and privacy.

In order to protect your wooden arbor or pergola, you should stain the wood, not paint it. This will highlight the natural beauty of the wood.  We recommend Baker’s Gray-Away products to stain your wood, using the following steps as guide:

Curing, cleaning, and preparation

New wood needs to cure, or weather, before stain is added. There are four different wood conditions that require specific cleaning, curing, and preparation before staining is done: new and untreated, new and pressure-treated, old and withered, and previously-stained wood.

The recommended weathering period for new and untreated wood is 4 to 6 weeks, while for new and pressure-treated wood, a period of 1 year is needed. Old and withered or previously-stained wood don’t need any curing since they have already been subjected to plenty of weathering.

You can clean new or old unstained wood by using either a percarbonate wood cleaner or sodium hydroxide, with cleaning pressure not exceeding 1500 psi. If you don’t have either of these cleaning agents, you may use a water and household bleach mixture at a ratio of 1:2. Make sure you wear the right protective clothing, because some of these chemicals are hazardous.

For previously-stained wood, you need to strip previous stains and sealers by using a wood stripper. Make sure you test whatever stripper you use on a small, unobtrusive section of your wood before cleaning it, to prevent discoloration and damage of your fence.

After cleaning, you must prepare your wood for staining by restoring its pH. Use acidic wood brightener for this purpose on any wood condition. The table below will serve as a useful guide for determining the curing, cleaning, and preparation requirement for your wood condition.

Wood Condition

Weathering Period

Cleaning Agent

Cleaning Pressure

pH Balancer

New, untreated

4-6 weeks

Percarbonate or Sodium Hydroxide

1500 psi max

Acidic Brightener

Pressure-treated

1 year

Percarbonate or Sodium Hydroxide

1500 psi max

Acidic Brightener

Old, withered

NA

Percarbonate or Sodium Hydroxide

1500 psi max

Acidic Brightener

Previously-stained

NA

Sodium Hydroxide Wood Stripper

NA

Acidic Brightener

Properly mix stain and sealer products

Before applying the stain and sealer on wood, make sure that you properly mix it before using. Proper mixing will ensure that the stain and sealer will give maximum protection to your wood products and ensure good coloration.

Wood coating

Always apply 2 coats to the wood for the best results.  You may use sprayer, brush, or rollers when applying wood stain. Apply a heavily-saturated first coat on the wood and allow the stain to penetrate until only a few or no wet areas are visible.  Then apply a lighter second coat. Make sure that the second coating covers the entire surface of the wood. Then leave the wood untouched, allowing it to dry for 48 hours.

Keep the following in mind when staining and sealing your wood:

  1. When using a sprayer, make sure that the pressure does not exceed 1500 psi.
  2. When using a brush or roller, always work with the grain of the wood.
  3. Don’t allow long periods of time between coats. An average of 15 to 30 minutes and a maximum of 1 hour is the recommended time interval. Make sure you keep this in mind, especially if you’re using a brush or rollers, because these take longer to cover everything.
  4. For less absorbent wood (e.g. cedar), you need to wipe off excess stain after allowing the second coat to seep into the wood for 15 minutes.
  5. Don’t leave puddles, since they will reduce the quality of the coating.  Coat out these puddles using a brush.

After you’ve followed these steps, sit back and wait for your vines to cover your arbor/pergola, and enjoy the beauty it gives your property.

Filed Under: Wood Tagged With: apply wood stain, cleaning agent, pressure treated wood, sodium hydroxide, stain, staining a wood fence, staining dyes, staining wood, treated wood, wood brightener, wood coating, wood fences, wood preservation, wood stain, wood staining, wood strippers

Chainlink Gate

November 15, 2012 by Learn

GALVANIZED
GATES
Bent
Frame
Residential,
1 3/8″ bent frame, economy walk and
drive gates. Stocking heights 4,5,and 6. Custom sizes available.
Residential
Residential,
1 3/8″ frame, welded walk and drive gates.
Available from 36″-96″ heights.
Industrial
Swing Gates
1
5/8″ and 2″ frame welded walk and
drive gates. Used in commercial and industrial
projects. Available from 36 ” to 144″
heights.
Commercial
Cantilever Gates
Commercial
and Industrial specialty gates.
Commercial
Barrier Gates
Used
for parking and vehicular control. Gates constructed
with 2″ pipe.Gates are in single panels; you will need
to order 2 panels for drive gates.
COLOR
POLY COATED GATES
Color
Coated Residential Gates
Residential,
1 3/8 Inch frame, welded walk and drive gates.
Available from 36″-96″ heights.
Color
Coated Industrial Swing Gates
1
5/8″ & 2″ frame welded walk
and drive gates.Use two (2) swing gates to make a double drive
gate.

Used in commercial and industrial projects.

Available from 48″ to 144 ” heights.

Filed Under: Chain-Link

Power for Your Electric Fence

November 5, 2012 by Learn

The significant work you have done in installing your fence would be wasted if you don’t use the right charger to give power to your wires.

Imagine having a 10 mile fence The work you have done to install this should have cost you a significant amount of money, time and effort. The one weakness in all your planning and hard work was the type of charger you picked. You were eager to release your animals and proud of the work you did when suddenly your animals showed you that there are parts of your fence with almost no power on the wires. Your face would be red as you tried to corral your animals back in, scratching your head as to what went wrong.

At the onset of the planning phase, you should consider which charger would be suited for your electric fence.  In deciding on the appropriate charger, you should consider the following factors:

  • What power source you will use;
  • What kind of animals will you be keeping within the enclosure;
  •  How long is your fence and your electric wires;
  • What type of electric fence wire; and
  • Other factors.

AC vs. DC vs. Solar

What power source you will use will affect which type of charger you will need.  There are three types of chargers based on the power source they use: AC, DC, and the solar chargers.

AC chargers run on alternating current and are plugged directly into an outlet.  These types of chargers are most recommended if you have access to a reliable power source. It is also recommended for maintaining a high electric charge, which is advisable for the enclosure of larger and more aggressive animals.

Chargers running on AC can generate more power compared to other sources, and the higher voltage they generate makes them advisable for long-distance transmission.  AC types of current can also be easily stepped up or down by using transformers, making it possible to adjust the current in you electric fence. It can even be easily converted to DC current.

DC chargers are battery operated. The main advantage of these types of chargers is the smooth flow of the current they produce. Since wires are less resistant to DC, it takes lower voltage to run this type of current and it produces less heat on the wires compared to AC. DC chargers are also not subject to reactance. This lowers the possibility of losing power on some parts of your fence.

Solar chargers are chargers which basically run on DC-type current.  These are the most economical types when maintaining farms on remote areas far from power lines. These types of chargers convert sunlight into electricity and store them in batteries.  When fully charged, these types of charger can maintain power for up to two weeks.

The following matrix would give you a larger view of the difference between these types of chargers:

AC Chargers

DC Chargers

Solar Chargers

Power

Strong Average Average

Distance charged

Can carry current to long distances due to its higher power output. Can carry current to a reasonable distance. Can carry current to a reasonable distance.

Current conversion

Can easily be converted to DC type of current Much more difficult and costly to convert to AC Much more difficult and costly to convert to AC

Output conversion

Output can easily be increased or reduced using transformers Power supply must match the load Power supply must match the load

Effect to electric wires

Shortens life of electric wires due to heat it produces as a result of resistance and reactance Prolongs life of electric wires due to lesser heat it produces Prolongs life of electric wires due to lesser heat it produces

Cost

More costly Economical Economical

Efficiency

Less efficient due to wire resistance of the wires to this type of current and impedance it causes More efficient to use More efficient to use

Location

Advisable for any location with a reliable power source More advisable for remote areas More advisable for remote areas with more exposure to sunlight

Animals for enclosure

Advisable for enclosure of larger and more aggressive animals.  Also advisable for herd types. Advisable for more sensitive animals which requires lesser enclosure area. Advisable for more sensitive animals which requires lesser enclosure area.

Use this matrix in order to properly identify the type of electric fence charger that will be most suitable for your needs.  Being prudent in choosing these chargers saves a lot of time, money, and effort.

Filed Under: Electric Fence

Troubleshooting Electric Fences

November 5, 2012 by Learn

Helpful guides to diagnose defects in your electric fence.

Maintaining your electric fence could be costly if you call an electrician each time you have a problem. For example, sometimes problems like having low or no charge could be caused from faulty wiring or a damaged charger, requiring professional help. Or, it may be something as simple as a blown fuse or a wrong setting. So here is a guide to use before calling your electrician. Hopefully you’ll be able to save some money.

An electric fence system is composed of the fence charger, the ground wire, the ground system, the lead out wire, lightning diverter (optional) and the fence wire. If you know these parts well, you’ll have a leg up in troubleshooting your own system. We recommend researching exactly how your particular brand of electric fence works and fits together.

There are two main problems that may occur on your electric fence system: either there is no power on your fence wires, or the power is too low to be an effective deterrent.

If the there is no power on your electric fence, you should consider the following causes:

  • No power from main source
  • Charger not plugged in
  • Blown fuse
  • Dead batteries
  • Corroded terminals
  • Defective charger
  • Faulty lightning diverters
  • Line break
  • Short circuits
  • Improper/inadequate grounding

Possible reasons for having low power are similar. Examples includE:

  • Low voltage from main source
  • Corroded fuses
  • Low-charged batteries
  • Corroded terminals
  • Defective charger
  • Faulty lightning diverters
  • Short circuits
  • Improper/inadequate grounding

To pinpoint the actual cause of the problem, you should use the elimination method in checking your electric fence system.  Here’s how to do it:

(Note: you probably don’t need to be told, but you’re working with electricity here, which could be dangerous or fatal if you don’t take the proper precautions! If you feel out of your depth, don’t try to do this yourself; call an electrician. Be sure that you only have power running through your systems when you need it. If it’s not neccesary, turn off the power at the breaker box to prevent shocks.)

Step 1:  Check the main power source and electric chargers

For AC chargers you should check whether your chargers are plugged into the main power source. If they are, check the main power source for lack of power or low voltage output.

For DC and solar chargers, check the charger batteries. Make sure they are properly charged. As you do so, check the output terminals for corrosion. Do the same of the input terminals of your electric charger.

If no defects are found, check your electric chargers. Use a tester to measure its power output. Check output terminals for corrosion.

If no defects are found, proceed to the next step.

Step 2:  Check lead out wire

You should disconnect the lead out wire from the main system. Do the same with the ground system. Turn off the power before you do so. Once isolated, turn the power back on and check the lead out wire for voltage output.

If no defects are found, connect the ground system.

Step 3:  Check ground system

Once the ground system is connected, check the voltage. If it’s defective, check the ground system. This may be caused by a wet ground where ground rods are buried, improper spacing of the ground rods, or underground water system or other underground utilities that are affecting the ground system.  Further familiarization with the grounding system is recommended to properly carry out this job.

If no defects are found, connect the lightning diverter.

Step 4:  Check lightning diverter

After connecting the lightning diverter to the lead out wire, check for voltage output.

If no defects found, connect the fence wires.

Step 5:  Check fence wires

If you are maintaining multiple levels of wire fence, you should test each level for power charge. In doing this, always disconnect all other wire levels not being tested to isolate the cause.  Once you have found which wire level or levels are faulty, it’s time to make your rounds of the fence.

You should check for the following while making your way around you fence:

  • Tree branches touching the wires;
  • Weeds touching the wire;
  • Damaged insulators;
  • Line breaks; and
  • Short circuits.

You may check for short circuits by using an AM radio.  Short circuits cause interference in radio signal.  Once interference occurs, you will know that you are near the part of the fence with a short and it would be easy to locate the damage.

In doing the entire troubleshooting process, don’t forget to always check for corrosion on the wires or any parts of the circuitry.  Repair or replace the damaged part of the electric fence system if you think you are capable of doing so.  If not, seek the help of an expert.

Protect yourself while doing the troubleshooting by using insulated gloves and being careful in each step.  A defective electric fence can always be repaired; injuries or fatalities due to electric shock might not be so easy.

Filed Under: Electric Fence

Faultless Grounding System

November 5, 2012 by Learn

Electric systems need to be grounded in order to prevent electric shocks. A grounding system carries electric current away and leads it into the ground, where it is absorbed. It’s important that your electric fence is properly grounded to protect yourself and your loved ones.

In an electric fence, grounding is a vital element since the wires are exposed and can easily be subjected to short circuit or human contact.  To prevent accidents, you should know how to install proper grounding before starting the installation of your fence. Soil conditions, charger capacity, and the composition of the grounding materials are the most basic considerations in proper grounding.

Soil conditions:

Dry soil or soil with low moisture content is more difficult when it comes to grounding. Dry soil needs to have longer grounding rods in order to be correctly grounded. High moisture soil is a grounding-friendly type of soil. Moisture will help the grounding rods dispose of the fault current from the circuit, since wet soil conducts electricity better. The presence of minerals and organic matter in the soil also improves the grounding capability of the buried rods.

Charger capacity:

Charger capacity and required grounding are directly proportional. The higher the capacity of your electric charger, the more grounding you will need. Be sure you know the power of your charger, and the required length of your ground wire.

Grounding materials:

Knowing a bit about the types of metal available for use as grounding rods will help you decide which ones to use for your fence:

  1. Aluminum rods – will easily corrode in the soil. Not recommended for use as grounding rod.
  2. Galvanized steel rods – last for long periods but tend to lose conductance once they corrode. Can be used as grounding rods.
  3. Copper rods or copper clad steel rods – last for longer periods and never lose conductance, even if they corrode. These are most recommended for use as grounding rods.

In the installation of your grounding system, you should use a 600 volt to 20 kilovolt insulated ground wire. The first ground rod should be placed within 20 feet of the charger.  For best results, use 6 ft to 8 ft rods driven into the ground, with a distance of 10 ft between each rod.

Use at least 3 ground rods for your electrical fence. If 3 rods would not provide proper grounding, use additional ground rods until the desired effect is achieved. These rods should be placed a reasonable distance away from drinking areas for your animals. You should also make sure that the ground rods are away from any underground utility lines, as this would disrupt signals of telephone lines or any electric utilities. Use grounding clamps in connecting the rods to the ground wire as these will not easily corrode when paired with the appropriate ground rod.

Grounding is an important part of the electric fence system that you are installing, so you should allot a considerable amount of time and effort to it. Once you have done these and made a faultless ground, you have already solved 90% of the connection problems that may happen to your electric fence.

Filed Under: Electric Fence

Electric Fence enclosures for Man’s Best Friend

November 5, 2012 by Learn

If you own a dog, you may have considered trying to keep your dog in your yard, where it’s safe, or keep undesirable critters out, with an electric fence. You might be surprised to know that there are electric fencing options for your pets. These options are safe, humane, and people-friendly, and when installed properly, will train your pet in no time that digging or climbing is not allowed.

For better planning of your yard perimeter electric fence, the first thing you should do is know your own dog and its behavior. The following are the qualities of your pets that are relevant to the installation of your electric fence:

  1. Jumping capacity – knowing how high your dog could jump will help you determine the height of your fence. The higher their capacity to jump, the higher your fence should be.
  2. Athletic composition – If your dogs are bigger and more muscular, you’ll need a multi-level, multi-wire fence. But for less brawny, “jumpier” dogs, less levels will suffice.
  3. Hair type – the type of fur your dogs have will determine which type of electric fence charger is appropriate to use. The more fur, the more voltage you need.
  4. IQ – believe it or not, your dog’s IQ may help you in planning your electric fence.  Bright dogs would easily grasp the perimeter of your electric fence through exposure to it while less intelligent dogs may need constant reminders that there is an electric wire that would prevent them from getting out of your yard.  For intelligent ones, you may opt to use steel or aluminum wire.  For the not-so-smart ones, it’s better to use tape to make the fence more visible to them.

Another thing that you should consider in installing your yard perimeter fence is the vegetation around your premises.  You should make sure that there are no shrubs, weeds, ornamental plants, or other vegetation in contact with you electric fence. These would drain energy from your fence.

Yard perimeter electric fences are similar and at the same time different than other electric fence types (e.g. fences for cows, horses, and other livestock). The similarity is that you are installing the same type of fence, and you will need the same components.  Fence chargers, fence wires, grounding systems, fence posts – all of these are still the same vital parts for you yard perimeter electric fence.

There are a few differences and they are as follows:

  1. Wire levels – to fence in your pets, you may need a greater or lesser number of wire levels of depending  on the type of dogs you own.  The spacing of your wire levels is also smaller than those for livestock fences.  Ideal wire level spacing for dog fences ranges from 4 inches to 12 inches.
  2. Lowest fence level – for dog fences, you need your lowest fence levels to be nearer to the ground.  This is to prevent your dogs from escaping by digging the ground below the fence.
  3. Accessories – you may need more accessories for your dog fences.  These fences may have a low electric current — not enough to do too much harm — but they will certainly cause annoyance to anyone who come in contact with them. Having adequate warning devices around your fence will ensure everyone stays safe and happy.

Filed Under: Electric Fence

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