From Posts to Pickets: The Professional Path
Building a wood privacy fence in North Texas is more than a weekend project—it is an engineering task. Between the high winds of the open prairie and the movement of the “Blackland” clay, a standard fence can fail quickly if the right steps aren’t followed.
At Fence Supply Inc., we believe in doing it right the first time. This guide breaks down the professional assembly process using #1 Grade Western Red Cedar and Galvanized Steel Posts.
Step 1: Setting Your Foundation
Before you nail a single board, your posts must be perfectly set and cured.
- The Posts: Use 2-3/8″ Galvanized Steel Posts. In the DFW climate, wood 4x4s warp and rot.
- The Depth: Set posts at least 24 inches deep (36 inches for 8-foot fences).
- Cure Time: Allow the concrete to cure for at least 24 to 48 hours before adding the weight of the wood.
Step 2: Attaching the Brackets and Rails
Once the posts are solid, you will install the horizontal “skeleton” of the fence.
- The Brackets: Use galvanized steel Wood-to-Steel brackets (often called “WAP” brackets).
- The Rails: For a 6-foot fence, use three horizontal 2×4 rails (Top, Middle, Bottom). For an 8-foot fence, we recommend four rails to prevent picket warping.
- Pro-Tip: Ensure your rails are level across the span. Use a string line across the top of the rails to maintain a straight, professional look across the entire run.
Step 3: Installing the Pickets
This is where the fence gains its personality. Whether you choose a Side-by-Side or Board-on-Board style, the installation remains similar.
- The Fasteners: Use Stainless Steel or Hot-Dipped Galvanized nails. Standard nails will react with the natural tannins in cedar, leaving ugly black “bleeding” streaks down your fence.
- The Starting Point: Start at a corner or the house. Use a level on the first picket to ensure it is perfectly vertical.
- The Gap: For Side-by-Side fences, leave a 1/8-inch gap between pickets to allow for wood expansion during our humid Texas springs.
[Image showing the difference between side-by-side and board-on-board picket placement]
Step 4: Adding a Rot Board (The “Professional” Touch)
In North Texas, we highly recommend a 2×6 Pressure-Treated Rot Board at the base of the fence.
- The Purpose: The rot board sits directly on the ground, keeping your expensive cedar pickets 2 inches above the soil and moisture.
- The Benefit: When the rot board eventually decays (after 10+ years), you simply replace the one bottom board rather than the entire line of pickets.
Step 5: Trim and Caps (The Finishing Details)
To elevate the look of your fence from “Standard” to “Estate Grade,” consider adding trim:
- Top Cap: A horizontal 2×6 or 2×8 board that runs across the top of the pickets.
- Trim Boards: 1×4 boards that cover the seams and add a finished, framed appearance.
Step 6: Protection and Maintenance
Your fence is not finished until it is sealed.
- The Wait: Allow your cedar to “dry out” for about 2 to 4 weeks after installation (depending on the season).
- The Product: Apply a high-quality, oil-based penetrating stain like Wood Defender. Unlike water-based stains that peel, oil-based stains soak into the fibers to protect against the brutal Texas sun.
Ready to Order Your Project Pack?
We make it easy. Give us your linear footage, and we can provide a complete “Project Pack” including the exact number of steel posts, #1 Cedar pickets, rails, and stainless steel fasteners you need.
